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Better Work Global – Phase IV - Final cluster evaluation

eval_number:

3191

eval_url:

https://webapps.ilo.org/ievaldiscovery/eval/3191

lessons_learned:

themes:

theme:

COVID-19

category:

COVID-19

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comments:

Brands and buyers; factory owners affected by the pandemic and by suspended contracts

challenges:

The suspension of purchasing contracts by buyer, during the pandemic, demonstrated the limited resilience of factories and the lack of sufficient mitigation measures. Factory representatives noted that they faced layoffs, and, in some cases, even had to close their operations. These challenges also affected working conditions in the factories (e.g. payment of wages). Better Work was not sufficiently able to negotiate with buyers and convince them to respect contracts and find flexible solutions for factories. Additionally, the situation demonstrated that while Better Work was effective in engaging buyers for the purpose of improving factory practices, this did not result in improved practices of buyers themselves.

success:

Buyers have expressed their interest to be more involved in the programme, for example through the Better Work Academy. One buyer also noted that Better Work helped them to develop a better social responsibility strategy for their own practices. This shows that buyers may be open to improve their practices.

context:

The COVID-19 pandemic highlighted various weaknesses of the garment sector and its relations with global brands. Namely, lockdowns worldwide reduced sales and therefore reduced the needs of brands and buyers to purchase from garment factories. As a result, many buyers and brands invoked the Force Majeure clause in their contracts with factories and terminated/suspended their payments.

description:

The Better Work Programme has worked and engaged with buyers throughout programme implementation. However, the Covid-19 pandemic showed that BW had limited leverage to convince buyers not to suspend their contracts with partner factories. There is a clear need to focus not only on factory compliance, but also on purchasing practices, accountability, and compliance with ILS by buyers and brands themselves.

administrative_issues:

The programme should enhance its engagement with buyers, particularly on raising awareness on the role and responsibility of buyers with regards to their factories.

url:

https://webapps.ilo.org/ievaldiscovery/lessons/245185

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location:

country:

Inter-Regional

region:

Inter-Regional

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eval_title:

Better Work Global – Phase IV - Final cluster evaluation